Big Trees of Oregon: 3 Top Old-Growth Forest Hikes

Published by

on

Updated 2/02/2023

“There are redwoods in Oregon!” I exclaimed, looking up from the screen. Bryan and I were in the final stages of planning our road trip down the Oregon coast. Based in northern Oregon, we’re no strangers to the fabulously ancient and just, well, big trees of Oregon in general… But it turns out that Oregon’s south coast is a profoundly different place, with profoundly different trees. If you’d like to experience old-growth forests in Oregon, the south coast is a must.

The unique ecosystem on Oregon’s south coast supports trees that are only found in southern Oregon and northern California, including coast redwoods, Oregon myrtle trees, and Port Orford cedars. We also encountered mammoth versions of a most familiar and beloved tree: Oregon’s state tree, the Douglas fir.

In today’s post, I’ll share a recommended day trip that showcases these unique old-growth forests in Oregon. Stay tuned for a video of the old-growth forest highlights later in this post!


Young woman in a blue jacket looking at a giant redwood treeMe (Holly) with a giant redwood tree on the Oregon Redwoods Trail

Old-Growth Forests in Oregon: Recommended Itinerary in a Nutshell

There’s nothing quite so healing as taking time to walk among the big trees of Oregon. My recommended itinerary packs three short old-growth forest hikes into one day, since each showcases a different tree species (or two). The hikes are easy and range in length from 0.3 to 1.6 miles.

These three old-growth forest hikes are about 6 hours’ drive from Portland. If you’re traveling along the Oregon coast from north to south, your first stop will be the Myrtle Tree Trail, which showcases Oregon’s largest myrtle tree. Myrtle trees are leafy but evergreen, and very fragrant.

Just an 8-minute drive down the road from the myrtle trees is the Frances Shrader Trail, where you can see huge old Douglas firs and Port Orford cedars.

After soaking in the old-growth forest at these two stops, hop in the car to head to the last stop: the redwood trees in Oregon on the fittingly named Oregon Redwoods Trail. You’ll travel right along the wild southern coast to reach the redwoods. It’s one of Oregon’s most scenic drives, so be sure not to miss it. Here waves churn around huge sea stacks, and the beaches are almost strangely peaceful—devoid of the crowds that invariably descend on Cannon Beach and other popular beaches further north.

View of a beach with several sea stacks at dusk on a cloudy daySnapshot from Highway 101, showing sea stacks on the wild southern Oregon coast

The Oregon Redwoods Trail is in Brookings, Oregon, which admittedly is only a few miles from the California border, but still—those redwoods are in Oregon.

Now for a deeper dive on each of these three trails that showcase the big trees of Oregon at their best.

First Stop: The Myrtle Tree Trail

The Myrtle Tree Trail is a short walk (0.3 miles) through a myrtle grove that ends at a huge myrtle tree. Several thick trunks sprout from a point about 6 feet up this mammoth myrtle tree, forming a leafy canopy of fine evergreen leaves. Their fragrance permeates the grove. It’s like walking into a spice cabinet.

But what’s most captivating about this giant myrtle tree is its roots. They ooze toward the ground from the trunk junction, like chunky lava that solidified before getting the chance to spread far. Enormous gaps in the roots invite the curious to walk into the tree, where you’ll find a spacious hollow. The tree seems at once timeless and fragile. According to the US Forest Service, this huge myrtle at the end of the Myrtle Tree Trail is the world’s largest.

Young man in a green shirt standing at the roots of a giant old-growth tree covered in mossBryan standing at the base of Oregon’s largest myrtle tree on the Myrtle Tree Trail

Alternate common names for the Oregon myrtle are the California bay and California laurel. Per Oregon State University, the Oregon myrtle is sometimes confused with the true laurel or Bay laurel, which is the tree that produces the bay leaves used in recipes. Oregon myrtle leaves are indeed sometimes used in place of bay leaves, but they contain harmful compounds (including the carcinogen safrole). I would avoid cooking with them!

The Myrtle Tree Trail is the first place I’ve ever seen Oregon myrtle trees. Per the Oregon Encyclopedia, their range is limited to parts of southern Oregon and California. Myrtlewood is prized by local crafters because it’s very hard and comes in a range of color tones. The trees are slow-growing, so sustainability is a concern in light of the myrtlewood industry.

Frances Shrader Old-Growth Trail

Just down the road from the Myrtle Tree Trail, the Frances Shrader Old-Growth Trail offers a slightly longer walk (0.8 miles) through a peaceful forest of enormous trees. This forest is dominated by Douglas Firs, with groves of Port Orford cedars intermixed.

The Douglas fir is special to Oregonians, appearing as the centerpiece on the Oregon license plate and securing the title of state tree of Oregon. It’s also the main tree species that’s commercially logged in Oregon.

Douglas firs are widespread throughout the Pacific Northwest, but due to logging, many areas have younger trees. The Frances Shrader Old-Growth Trail is one of the best places to see massive old-growth firs.

Young woman in a red jacket looking up at an old-growth Douglas Fir treeGiant Douglas fir on the Frances Shrader Old-Growth Trail

Like the Oregon myrtle tree, Port Orford cedars are uniquely suited to this part of Oregon. Per the US Forest Service, they’re native to the southern Oregon and northern California coast.

Unfortunately, Port Orford cedars are declining due to an organism called Phytophthora lateralis that infects the roots. Phytophthora lateralis spreads through spores that can travel by water or soil. It’s easy for people to unintentionally spread it from one place to another on their shoes or vehicle tires. You can reduce the spread by cleaning your shoes before and after hiking in areas with Port Orford cedars, and cleaning your vehicle if traveling on dirt roads in those areas.

As we drove away from the Frances Shrader Old-Growth Trail, we were lucky to see an owl perched in a tree!

Owl with brown and white feathers perched on a branch and looking at the cameraThe owl we saw near the Frances Shrader Old-Growth Trail

Oregon Redwoods Trail

The Oregon Redwoods Trail is an hour and 20 minutes further south by car, but you’ll drive right along the Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor, a rugged coastline of sea stacks and rocky outcrops that’s often a destination in its own right.

At the end of the drive, you’ll turn onto a fairly long gravel road that leads to the trailhead. The trailhead itself has a sizable parking lot, but it was completely empty when we visited. We didn’t see any other hikers!

Oregon is the only state aside from California where coast redwoods are native. They are the world’s tallest trees, and they stick to the coastal region because they need a cool climate with dependable water. Per the California Department of Parks & Rec, coastal fog allows them access to water in the otherwise dry summer months. They grow only about 50 miles inland from the coast since they aren’t adapted to the drier conditions further east.

You can identify redwoods by their often enormous size, reddish bark, and by their needles. Redwood needles are thick and grow flat, like a sheet of paper. Douglas fir needles, on the other hand, stick out in all directions around the stem.

Closeup of a woman's hand pointing out the flat growth pattern of redwood needlesCloseup of coast redwood needles and their flat growth pattern

The Oregon Redwoods Trail is a 1.6-mile loop hike. There are larger redwood trees if you venture further south to the Redwood National and State Parks in northern California, but this is an exciting and rare opportunity to see redwoods in Oregon.

For our all-time favorite redwood hike (this one is in California), check out our blog post on the James Irvine Trail to Fern Canyon.

Video Highlights of the Three Old-Growth Forest Hikes

To experience the highlights from these three Oregon old-growth forest hikes before you go, check out our video below.

Other Adventures in the Pacific Northwest

Thanks for joining us in exploring the old-growth forests in Oregon! For more adventure ideas in the Pacific Northwest, check out our PNW Trip Planner. You can find adventures near you and filter by season and difficulty level. There are weird and wonderful things to explore any time of year. The trip planner links to blog posts to help you plan your next adventure.

Happy exploring!

Discover more from Adventures with Holly & Bryan

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Continue reading